Destinations
The destinations for “The Trucker’s Guide” range from the Nevada desert to the forests of Wyoming. Although widely dispersed and on the surface very different, all of them have one thing in common: they each encourage and embrace a lifestyle completely different from, sometimes even at odds with, mainstream American culture. This is perhaps partially a reflection of Stevie’s own disenchantment with the American ‘system’, a result no doubt, of the way he lived for so many years.
Whether it is a place where money and all forms of transactions are outlawed (Burning Man), the no holds barred rough and ready home of America’s last vagabonds - the motorcycle gangs (Sturgis Bike Rally) or people living as if they had been taken back in time 300 years (The Renaissance Fair), “The Trucker’s Guide” is Stevie exploring different ideologies and ways of life and experiencing them first hand in his own country.
This is an ordinary man’s look, in his own quest for identity and understanding, at some very extraordinary places.
Episode destinations: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6
1. Burning Man (pilot episode - completed)
‘Burning Man’ is often mistakenly described as a festival, something its organisers take exception to. A more accurate description would be that it is an event or an experience.
Every year, deep in the Nevada desert, some 45,000 RV and motor homes come together for an eight day social experiment called 'Burning Man'. The vehicles are arranged in makeshifts streets in a crescent shape large enough to be seen from space. This is Black Rock City, Nevada and there is only one rule by which it is governed – money and commercial transactions of any kind are prohibited. You cannot buy, sell or trade anything.
Citizens of Black Rock are expected to bring everything they need to survive the baking days and chilly nights with them. This is an event designed to create community and radical self-reliance. With its huge interactive artworks, theme camps and radically modified mutant cars, you could be forgiven for thinking you had mistakenly stepped onto the set of ‘Mad Max’.
The organisers build an 80ft wooden man - the significance of which is something of an enigma even to those that regularly attend - which is burnt on the penultimate night of the event. There is also ‘The Temple’, where attendees write down memories, events and anything else they would like to forget from their past and then place inside. In a profoundly cathartic ceremony, this is burnt on the final night.
2. The Texas Renaissance Fair
Knights in shining amour, barbarians and wenches – America tries to be British, Texan style…
In the U.S. spring, thousands of Americans flock to British Renaissance Fairs throughout the States. One of the largest of these is held in Austin, Texas where over the course of 5-10 weekends America goes British - as best it can.
Court jesters roam the countryside entertaining kids, jousting knights battle till dusk and busty wrenches serve mead from wooden mugs. Attendees here also lap up English accent affectations so ridiculous they would even put Dick Van Dyke to shame.
The only articles for sale are those that could be found in medieval times and everything is hand made the same way it was in that period. The fair runs mainly at the weekend, but during the week just as much fun can be had behind the scenes.
This is not only a fascinating insight into the American national identity, it is also a journey back to renaissance Britain, strangely enough via the middle of the American south-west.
3. Mission to Mars – No spaceship required
Twenty minutes north of the tiny town of Hanksville sits a lone cylindrical building tucked into the craggy red surface of Utah’s San Rafael Swell. This spaceship-like structure, the brainchild of the non-profit, privately funded Mars Society is the Mars Desert Research Station or ‘Mars Analog’.
The location, chosen for its resemblance to Mars provides researchers with an opportunity to live and work in an environment as close to The Red Planet as earthly possible. Its inhabitants live in complete ‘sim’ - wearing spacesuits when they venture outside, consuming only dehydrated, shelf-stable food and militantly conserving their very limited water supplies.
Besides its lofty celestial aspirations, ‘Mars Analog’ also highlights some pertinent and contemporary earthly questions. The simulation’s emphasis on the conservation of resources and minimal impact on the external environment are an environmental activist’s dream come true.
The station also provides fascinating examples of how humans create routines and behaviours to negotiate living in small places on limited resources for extended periods.
4. The American Hobo Convention
The days of Kerouac and ‘On The Road’ may seem long gone but there are still an estimated 30,000 hobos in the U.S. hopping freights, scrapping metal and outsmarting the railroad cops as they go.
Every year, this little understood and often misjudged subculture meet in the undisputed home away from the tracks for rail riders - Britt, Iowa - for the American Hobo Convention. Here the men and women of the tracks sit around a constantly burning campfire in the hobo jungle, swapping stories and reminiscing about days gone by.
The people that make up this vast alterna-culture represent in their own way a microcosm of America and are just as complex and diverse as folks in the ‘real’ world. Hobos have their own code of conduct, a short-hand language in the form of pictures they draw to advise other hobos who come after them and they come from all age brackets and backgrounds. Some choose to live the railroad riding lifestyle full time, others opt only to do it for a month or two every year.
Each has their own rough-textured reasons for living this way but without exception a single element binds them together - the pursuit of freedom and living life on their own terms.
5. The Native American Pau Wau
A “Pau Wau” is a Native American Indian gathering held every year in the spring and summer. The ground on which a Pau Wau take places is considered sacred, having been blessed repeatedly before the event begins and the event celebrates the heritage and traditions of America’s indigenous tribes.
Each Pau Wau centers around a drum and dancers and can last for anything from a few hours up to a week. The dancing is overseen by a master of ceremonies, who co-ordinates the different dancing groups and is committed to the traditions and spirituality of each nation of American Indians in attendance. A master of ceremonies’ focus is on maintaining a spiritually safe, peaceful and cleansed environment.
This is a celebration of harmony, balance, spirituality and wellness - ideals which all form the bedrock of the American Indian culture.
6. The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally
If the Pau Waus epitomise all that is peaceful, spiritual and earthly about the American way, the biggest bike rally of them all, Sturgis, is about standing tall, riding mean and getting your shit kickers on.
In a small town in South Dakota’s Black Hills, some 375,000 hardcore bikers, America’s last true outlaws, come together every year to get wasted, fight and generally have what they consider to be a romper stompin’ good time. Sturgis, ever since its debut way back in 1940, has been the motorcycle maniac’s dream.
No matter how many cops patrol the perimeter, this isn’t the place to teach old dogs with pony-tails and tattoos new tricks. Drag racing, live rock concerts and furious drinking sprees all add to the rough and tumble nature of the event.
Participants here are searching for freedom of a very different kind to those who attend the Hobo Convention and a very different type of self-expression to the artists at Burning Man but perhaps in many ways their behaviour is driven by a similar underlying philosophy.